When I started my latest HP2 comeback, my controller of choice had some bad buttons. I brought in my Logitech Extreme 3D Pro which was not a recognized controller but got it to work OK. I blew it out practicing Class 1 races. They usually last about six months and I take it down and get a new one with the warranty. Warranty expired this time so I took apart my Microsoft Force Feedback 2 (controller of choice). Comes apart nicely and sure is different than other sticks I have taken apart.
Very nicely built. Plastic nubs are depressed into a junction box from the outside buttons. Logitech uses metal to metal connections. If they still made parts for the FF2 it would literally be a snap to replace the worn nubs. Am thinking that I might rebuild the nubs with just a touch of epoxy or something. The finished product can't be sticky. Anyone have a suggestion on a product that I could apply to a tiny plastic nub that would add just a touch of hight to the nub? About the thickness of a fingernail.
Love the FF2. Sold my backup for $105.00 a few years back when I was moving. Yes, I see em on E bay for about $60 used now. Gamble buying old ones though.
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controller repairs buttons have worn down plastic nub
#3
Posted 31 January 2014 - 02:04 PM
Microsoft stopped production of the FF 2 in 2003. They were built to perform and last. Have used mine aggressively since the turn of the century. The button does not need to be glued back together. It needs to have a very small drop of something that will bond to a hard plastic and can be sanded.
These 2 products seem perfect but am looking for anyone with epoxy types experience.
Master Bond EP38CL
http://www.masterbon...srelease/ep38cl
Loctite Epoxy Plastic Bond
http://www.loctitepr...stic-Bonder.htm
If one could find a like new FF 2, it would fetch a pretty penny! I stopped bidding for a backup for mine on E bay when the bidding topped $150.00
These 2 products seem perfect but am looking for anyone with epoxy types experience.
Master Bond EP38CL
http://www.masterbon...srelease/ep38cl
Loctite Epoxy Plastic Bond
http://www.loctitepr...stic-Bonder.htm
If one could find a like new FF 2, it would fetch a pretty penny! I stopped bidding for a backup for mine on E bay when the bidding topped $150.00
This post has been edited by Geezr: 31 January 2014 - 02:15 PM
#5
Posted 01 February 2014 - 03:11 AM
I'm not familiar with the epoxy in the first link, but it looks like it puts out a very small amount which is what you want.
The epoxy in the second link is good stuff but I've never liked the containers that pushes out the two components at the same time. It doesn't give an equal mix. I prefer having the hardener in a separate container. I would think that any name brand epoxy would work for you though. Personally, I use BSI (Bob Smith Industries) and it's excellent, strong, dries very hard. It can be sanded but it's pretty hard stuff. Epoxy in general is very thick and not very viscous, so if you can find epoxy with a very fine applicator, that would work best for you. What ever you end up using, make sure you do a few practice trials on something else first.
btw, I build and fly those planes that Pking mentioned. I build them mainly with C.A. (superglue)but use epoxy to repair them.
The epoxy in the second link is good stuff but I've never liked the containers that pushes out the two components at the same time. It doesn't give an equal mix. I prefer having the hardener in a separate container. I would think that any name brand epoxy would work for you though. Personally, I use BSI (Bob Smith Industries) and it's excellent, strong, dries very hard. It can be sanded but it's pretty hard stuff. Epoxy in general is very thick and not very viscous, so if you can find epoxy with a very fine applicator, that would work best for you. What ever you end up using, make sure you do a few practice trials on something else first.
btw, I build and fly those planes that Pking mentioned. I build them mainly with C.A. (superglue)but use epoxy to repair them.
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